Ca’ d’Oro alla Vedova: the bacaro of meatballs and the giro d’ombra
In a small calle in Cannaregio, for 130 years the Venetian ritual of cicchetti has been alive.
Cannaregio, Venice
A historic, family-run osteria for 130 years, Osteria Ca’ d’Oro alla Vedova is located in the heart of Venice’s historic centre, along Strada Nova in Cannaregio. It is widely known simply as “La Vedova.” The official name matters little.
The osteria is located in a dead-end, semi-hidden alley in the Cannaregio district, at number 3912 on Ramo Ca’ d’Oro, just a few steps from Strada Nova. You don’t end up here by chance—you have to look for it. And that is exactly the point.
The osteria has always been run by members of the Di Giulio family, through matrilineal succession. The interior is that of a traditional Venetian osteria: wooden tables and chairs, prints on the walls, copper pots hanging from the ceiling, chandeliers casting a warm light. Nothing has been changed on purpose—it has stayed this way because it has always been this way.
The cicchetto to order is just one: the polpetta. Round, perfectly fried and succulent—an institution with a crispy crust and a flavorful filling. It is eaten standing at the counter with a glass of white wine (ombra), just as Venetians have done for generations. And if you stay for lunch or dinner, you’ll find bigoli in salsa, sarde in saor, and baccalà mantecato.
This is an independent editorial feature.
Practical Information
Location: Cannaregio, Venice
Duration: Aperitif, lunch, or dinner
Estimated price: Cicchetti from €2 · Dinner €25–€35 per person
