Collio in a Day: From Cormons to Casanova’s Castle
The Gorizia Collio is narrow and elongated—you can drive across almost the entire region in less than an hour. But this is not a place to pass through; it is a place to linger. This one-day itinerary links Cormons, the Collio’s informal capital, with Castello di Spessa in Capriva del Friuli, with a stop along the way to discover what truly makes this landscape unique.
The Stops
Morning: Cormons and the Wineries of the Collio
Cormons is a small border town, halfway between Gorizia and Slovenia. It is a compact border town with a charming historic centre, a farmers' market well worth browsing, and, above all, some of Friuli's finest wineries on its doorstep. Livio Felluga, in nearby Brazzano di Cormons, is the perfect place to begin the day—five generations of an Istrian family producing some of the Collio's most celebrated white wines, recognisable by the iconic map of the region on every label. For those wishing to linger over lunch surrounded by vineyards, La Subida is just a few minutes away—a Michelin-starred restaurant serving refined borderland cuisine in a hamlet tucked away in the woods.
Lunch: Hosteria al Castello or Tavernetta
From Cormons, it's a seven-kilometre drive to Capriva del Friuli, along quiet country roads winding through vineyards and sleepy villages. At Castello di Spessa, Tavernetta al Castello is the estate's gourmet restaurant, serving regional cuisine built around local meats and cheeses, thoughtfully paired with the estate's own wines. For a more relaxed meal, Hosteria del Castello offers a simpler take on Friulian cuisine, served in a more informal setting within the estate.
Afternoon: Castello di Spessa and a Wine Tasting in the Bunker
The afternoon is devoted to exploring Castello di Spessa: medieval wine cellars, a bunker carved eighteen metres below ground, and a tasting of Casanova Pinot Nero alongside the estate's other wines. It's worth staying until sunset—the way the evening light settles over the Collio is something words can hardly capture.
Practical Information
By car: take the A4 motorway and exit at Villesse, then follow the SS56 towards Cormons. From Cormons to Capriva del Friuli, take the SP9—the drive takes around 15 minutes.
Bicycles can be hired at Castello di Spessa to explore the surrounding vineyards.
